|About the Book: Abstract||Mathematical Modeling Of Breaking Wave Statistics|
We are now entering an age when even the most delicate of climate changes may have significant effects on world economics, and on the very habitability of some areas of the world. This sensitivity can be related to a rapid increase in world population and possible changes in the environment brought about by man's extensive utilization of natural resources. This makes understanding of the geophysics of climate change one of the most important scientific problems of the end of this century.
The oceans are a central part of the climate system, both because they cover such a large percentage of the globe and because of their large thermal capacity and inertia. The oceans and the atmosphere interact directly at their interface, so that an understanding of the physical processes which occur in the upper boundary layer of the ocean, from the sea surface to the oceanic pycnocline, will be crucial to our understanding of climate variability.
The most conspicuous physical process at the sea surface is the generation and growth of wind waves. Progress in understanding the hydrodynamics involved has not, however, been rapid; both theory and experiment have been plagued by complications and nonlinearities. The problem of the initial generation of wavelets from calm water was finally solved satisfactorily only about five years ago. Attention is now focused on the considerable progress made in the last few years in elucidating various characteristics of the waves themselves, such as instabilities of steep waves and breaking phenomena, and the details of the forcing of existing waves by the coupled air flow above them.
The possibility of making large-scale measurements of ocean waves from satellites has simultaneously opened a new epoch. The urgency of understanding the basic physics involved in the remote sensing of wind waves is emphasized by the swift approach of the "satellite measurement age" of the 1990's. The central unsolved problem of the day is the explanation of the relation between the fine structure on the sea surface and the observed electromagnetic scattering from it.
This book is the Proceedings of the Symposium held on the campus of the Faculty of Science of Tohoku University, located on a hill and surrounded with green trees, overlooking the city of Sendai, itself known as the "Capital of Trees". About 180 scientists from 15 countries took part. The order in which the papers were given has been rearranged for the book into 11 groups, and includes both oral and poster papers. Special invited reviews are to be found at the beginning of 4 of the groups: Nonlinear Wave Dynamics; Wave Dynamics, Statistics and Wave Modelling; Wave Dynamics and Microwave Probing; and Mixed-Layer Models for Climate Study. These reviews were contributed by M.S. Longuet-Higgins, O.M. Phillips, G.R. Valenzuela and J.D. Woods. They run the gamut from comprehensive reviews of particular subjects to highly original contributions to the general subject of the meeting. These, combined with the other 73 papers, provide an up-to-date picture of the state of progress in this field of research.
|Table of Contents [p. 145]|
|Year 1st published:|
|Editors: Toba, Y. Mitsuyasu, H.|